Friday, July 31, 2009

Pat Pong and Ping Pong: A night in Bangkok's Sex District




Before I arrived to Bangkok, I was not too familiar with Thai people, what they looked like, how they sounded; I wasn’t sure I had ever met a Thai person. What I did know was that in fifth grade, my aunt had brought back a Hard Rock Café: Bangkok shirt for me. That whole school year, wearing the shirt once or twice a week, the bourgeoning potty-mouths were beside themselves. Those two syllables within Bangkok, so blunt and vulgar, immediately decided the choice words for the class.



Because of that Hard Rock t-shirt, and the dirtiness it once represented, the city had always stood for sex. I continued to associate this, and to no surprise, on every corner, the real Bangkok justified all of its phonetic filthiness. Especially, in one district—not too far from the city’s center. Pat Pong Market, as it was referred to, held a reputation from the onset that was notorious, a must-see for anyone passing through Thailand. I, for one, did not need too much persuasion to board the sex safari. Nor much time. That same night, with the wildebeest and his buzz-cut friend, we went.



They meowed and hissed. When my back was turned, I could feel the weight of their gaze. I would remember what I just sidestepped; a Thai girl, thinly-clad, wigwagging her backside, curling her index fingers inward, ushering me into her workspace, as if I was already late. There we many like her, all of whom, overflowed into the streets, rerouting the pedestrian traffic into one of the numerous Go Go bars. Once inside, the girls paraded around poles and cocktail tables, they purred on laps, they asked what my name was. In the center, others clustered onto a podium. Many were pretty, I reckoned, but each wore a numbered dog tag, dangling just below their small breasts. As they rotated, the respective numbers increased-- noticeable gaps suggested some were already at work. I was at once reminded of an Auschwitz wake-up drill and a beauty pageant.



It was simple. Once eyes had been met, they required one or two drinks—some jesting, a little lollygagging to follow. I saw no official transactions as in the red-light district of Amsterdam. No set prices. No up-front payments. The process here, it seemed, was modeled upon the casual negotiations of a yard-sale and entailed no more than permission from the manager. It was clear, if I wanted to take them out for dinner, I would have a girl-friend for the night. If I provided breakfast, I’d have them until lunch. So on and so forth.



I sat on the periphery, athwart a British girl, who was also balancing curiosity with caution. She had a disarming presence— granted probably by her rare distinctiveness in the gooey orgy of Asian women. At first glance, the shadowiness of the surrounding sin caused her to be aglow with cultivated beauty—like that of a virgin. Not long, when we agreed to step outside together, only a few feet from the sleaze, many of my early impressions of her were in fact, overstated. But I was appreciative to have her by my side, for she effectively, unflinchingly, warded off the whores who waited in ambush.



To anyone who’s been to Thailand, the real horror of Pat Pong Market is nearly the prostitution. There is, in truth, something at play which is far more outrageous; far more despicable and modestly spoken, spellbinding, for all orientations. I had never witnessed something so unbelievable, not in the most daring acts of pornography, nor in any display, X-rated or not, of human behavior in my entire life. The Ping Pong Show breathed life into a fetish seldom imagined, I would trust, but once the performance is seen and synthesized, the female body and (any) inanimate object(s) will share a relationship.



Marian, my interim lover and I took our seats moments before the curtains opened. We discovered Super Pussy minutes before by the jamboree of Finish boys thronged outside. All of us were horded upstairs by the leather laced doorwomen, cracking with bullwhip certainty we would receive a free drink upon entry. We received our whiskeys, and joined the other members of the audience, gazing inquiringly at the randomness of things scattered across the front half of the stage. In between the unclothed cocktail waitresses that passed, there appeared wooden paddles, soda bottles, a small fish tank without any fish, non-erasable markers and white paper. Good heavens, I thought.



When the music dulled and the rickety mechanics of the curtain squeaked, two women emerged. Both were gaunt, one was more demonstrative, seemingly more mirthful in the spotlight; the other was deadpan but sneaky, she seemed as if she was hiding something. The music resurfaced. The girl, who had seemed demonstrative, now shuddered as if she was irked by a sensation of twitchiness. She shuffled to the side, very close to me. Awaiting her turn for I did not know what, her growing impatience and her nudity made me uncomfortable.



Taking center stage was the other one. For the few seconds before, her whole temperament seemed strained, burdened by something unnatural. Even below the pelvis, however, she had no disfigurement save for the single red thong that scantily covered the slit of her fleshy vagina. When she scrunched into a squat, she stretched one arm behind for balance and used her other hand to pinch the thong to the side. She appeared now to be in a state of constipation, and when it intensified, a thump burped between her legs. A ping pong ball no sooner, ricocheted against the far wall. My heart galloped.



Now I knew all along she had been hiding something. To be precise, more than just something, but several things. Moist ping balls continued to be released, deflecting at random, bouncing off walls and confused people. I was handed one of the wooden paddles, encouraged to participate. Squatting, she served, and I returned. Back and forth we went. The crowd cheered, and the instances I missed, they booed. The whole experience was unique. Everyone was having fun.
Sidestepping to the center, the showgirl who had stood watch during her partner’s act was now excited for different reasons. What was once mirth, anxiety had replaced. When the right attention was granted, she wasted no time. Hovering over the fish bowl, with the interiors of her ankles pressed up against the glass, she gave the audience an unerring suggestion of what she had in store, or rather, storage.



The gold fish, the size of an unlit match, was released into the water alive. I had not known when the fish entered her exactly; had it been trapped up there since the show had begun? The restlessness I remember, suggested yes, and that was to be five minutes at least. Five minutes or five seconds, I’m certain this girl had experienced the most acute sensation of ticklishness available; granted from a biological standpoint, I cannot empathize, but I trust, seeing the openmouthed girls in attendance, there was reason to be impressed.



As the show continued, other girls appeared, with pale complexions and unbelievable objectives. One started pulling feet of multi-stranded ribbon from her midsection—I could not help be reminded of African Guinea Worm. Another girl absorbed Coke-A Cola and sprayed it into the crowd. Towards the end, a cute little go-getter came out with a box of markers. She chose the color red to be clamped inside her. Above a sheet of paper, she crouched low and planted her feet, as if to leap frog. However, instead of launching, she remained in place, thrusting her weight in a series of fine strokes. The final product was not legible until she raised it. With the same sloppiness and self-fulfillment of a kindergarten student, she had correctly spelt her name.
My participation early on drew one of the performers to my side. Seeing that I had my eyes glued to the stage, she refocused her attention there as well. “This is easy,” she spoke loudly while pawing my shoulder, “I can do this.” She was not intimidated by my female companion. Like her, the many other prostitutes I observed proceeded with a nasty disregard to all girl-friends and wives. Non-hookers were just laywomen, to be treated with insolence and inferiority.



Brushing Marian aside like a dog begging at the dinner table, she announced, “I do boom boom too.” Her overtures continued until she deemed me good-for-nothing, and went on to the few men left.



Some audience members lost patience with the show and left midway through. It almost seemed as some men came here to be stimulated, and when they were made aghast, they left. That the concept of a girl transforming her vaginal cavity as manipulative instrument perhaps had a carnal appeal at first, but in practice, was no more erotic than a gymnast holding a split, or a break-dancer extending a headstand. Yes, the women were naked. And in their appearance, they represented a foreign pulchritude to be desired, but my brain was in no mood to lust. It was instead hampered with jolting astonishment.



The absurdity of the show certainly had its own worth, but this absurdity was not achieved through its raw sexual explicitness. When it was all said and done, it was not the conventional strip show to sit sheepishly and hide my erection, I was witnessing; I had come, somewhat accidentally, to celebrate human accomplishment.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Colorblind

There is the Sun and the Moon, and between, is the World, Blue and Rotund, and the rest, we unfairly color Green.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

My First Swedish Midsummer







Having spent the greater chunk of the year in the scruffy 3rd world, understanding that soon, I would spend the next two years in the sweltering straits of Africa, I knew at no delay, I needed a first world vacation. At the very least, I needed to cleanse my lungs in the freshest air of prosperity I could. Scrolling Kayak.com, ogling my options, Sweden, with the soft, ethereal touch of an angel, pulled me towards her. When I looked down, and to my wonderment, my fingers were no longer typing, but stroking, stroking silky strands of blond hair, I had no choice but to purchase.

Spending a few nights in Stockholm, I dipped south, spending the weekend in Copenhagen. From Copenhagen, I spent two nights in Malmo, a city on the Swedish-Danish Border. Thanks to a few friends I made in Paris, while studying at the Sorbonne, I was invited to stay at their place in Gotemburg. During that time, I had the opportunity to experience the apotheosis of Swedish culture.

The friday that falls the closest to the summer solstice is a much anticipated day if you're from Sweden. It is called Midsummer, a long standing tradition for Swedes to come together, usually in a country home or coastal cottage. Once you reach adolescense, the celebration is usually spent among friends, precisely balancing the male/female ratio. Suiting up with felicitous dress, the Swedes spend the afternoon hours with a glass in hand, mingling, each looking more exquisite than the next. As the hours grow later, evening is no where to be found. Darkness is no match to the stubborn Northern sun, and so, daylight continues on, far beyond the conventional concept, shaking your internal time-clock into a tizzy.

In my particular run-in with Midsummer around 8pm, after a few bizarre games, the men lit the grill. Together, in a similar fashion, we tossed on juicy slabs of unidentifiable meat. Losing sight of my particular contribution, I forked up two pieces, and took them upstairs to the decorative dinner table. When everyone took his or her seat, members of the party stood up and declared a toast. After the speaker finished, and the shrieks of laughter disipated, the table engaged in a round of Snapps shots--the custumary alcohol of Midsummer. The Swedes were very respectful, and compromised their mother tongue for english to include us into conversation. At one point, I stood up, toasting and raising a glass to Sweden as the "most competitive experiment in perfection the world has to offer." The bibulous cheer grew into louder explosions of joy, and soon merrymaking flared across the dancefloor. Frenziedly, the next few hours were dedicated to the music, keeping balance and Limbo. Towards midnight, bodies started to drop, a few in plain sight, others drifted off in pairs. By 1am, all floors of the house were like mini WWII battlefields of sprawling Europeans. The sun, at one point, touched down on the horizon, but quickly bounced up, even higher than before. Light then poured through the windows, revealing how absurdly positioned everyone was. As one of the first to be up, tiptoeing between broken glass, splashes of vomit and snoring lovers, I arrived at the window facing over the water. Gazing into a vast, billowing sea dividing Denmark, I was drawn to a gentle commotion below. Johnny, my old childhood counterpart was shirtless and smiling, upright on the sun-rinsed deck, tipping back a bottle of beer.

To see photos of the celebration, click the link below
6/09http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2158543&id=7402694&l=64ffa0f8fb

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Facebook Photo Albums

The Himalayas 9/08
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2119640&id=7402694&l=35fbaed1b2

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2119640&id=7402694&l=35fbaed1b2

Swedish Midsummer 6/09
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2158543&id=7402694&l=64ffa0f8fb

The Full Moon Party: South Thailand 3/09
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2152495&id=7402694&l=13e7703965

Varanasi, India 4/09
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145709&id=7402694&l=440387e254
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2145704&id=7402694&l=65335f0645

Vietnam 3/09
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2142442&id=7402694&l=f754b84516

Cambodia 3/09
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2140793&id=7402694&l=1dc4e401f0
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2140799&id=7402694&l=69cbbcf1d1

Krabi, Thailand 3/09
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2143255&id=7402694&l=173bc0617d

Goa, India 1/09
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2132678&id=7402694&l=565081f0df

Sri Lanka 12/08
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2132677&id=7402694&l=47e758bdb4

New Delhi 9/08-12/08
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2126096&id=7402694&l=5fa9944a16

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118116&id=7402694&l=b11279d59b

Rishikesh/ The Ganges River 11/08
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2121078&id=7402694&l=fc5ded84a3

The Taj Mahal 9/08
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2120127&id=7402694&l=20055f52de

A sneakpeek of Chapter 1 of my South-East Asian Travels

When the taxi pulled up to Khaosan Road a little before noon, I immediately checked in to a hotel, broke free from my clunky backpack and fell backwards, waking up to a dark sky on a stiff mattress. I walked outside, secured a seat at the first outdoor café and ordered a cup of coffee and one Thai beer. I was impressed with the coffee and curious how another beer would taste. While the waitress brought over another beer, I noticed five bright-colored Barak Obama T-shirts undulating in the soft breeze, two of which, were obscured by another idle traveler. When I aimed my camera in his direction, he scooted to the side.

“Not that you’re not terrifically handsome” I said. Those were my first words to come out of my mouth that were not directly related to a formal transaction since I left India. While the waitress returned with the beer, he prepared to respond, to which he finally did, with an invitation to join him. With alacrity, I rearranged my chair and offered my company. He had a voluble tongue about his recent trip to Cambodia, his ten years spent in England and his long overdue return home, to Australia with his fiancé. He was adamant we drank more before we ate, ‘eating was cheating’ he enjoyed repeating. His fiancé, Beth, joined us, and urged us to revisit the topic of Cambodia. Etching on a napkin, the couple devised a ten-step manual how to reach the Cambodian border entirely hassle free. The detailed instructions were precise: how to detect a con-artist, a tourist trap, and what phrases to assert at the border. I inscribed the steps into the front cover of my Paul Theroux novel, Dark Star Safari. I felt I was being led on a treasure hunt and I liked that, so I insisted Cambodia would be next. James and Beth were satisfied and we continued on, our moods proving more expansive by each beer.

The road now was swirling with travelers. James and Beth saw it wise to resign for the night, leaving me with a sufficient buzz and a flappy mouth. I moseyed on across the street, taking a seat by two pretty women. They were rattling off in Spanish, but their table joined with a larger party, all of whom had the earmarks of an American with the exception of one man. At first, the associations of all those seated were unknowable. The one Indian man with the three Americans acknowledged my curiosity despite the sonorous Spanish that divided us. He lofted several platitudes over the banter until I pulled closer. Causing an interruption, I projected my introduction so all could hear, including the gabby Spaniards. All eyes were on me as I delivered my story: though I could go no further once I broached New Delhi—the Indian man asking me where exactly. And of course, the right response was Golf Links, his childhood home, also the same neighborhood my sister lives and I had stayed. The happenstance filled him with tremendous garrulity that he, with the support of the table, revealed the peculiar circumstances of why he and they were together.

In addition to Golf Links, the man from India and I shared one more thing in common. At that table, we had both met his daughter—for the first time. 20 years had passed since his American girl friend had urged him to run along, to pursue his dream to be a hot-air balloon captain, and to be anything but a father in their daughter’s life. So he did, his daughter and he eerily explained. He never bemoaned about his abandonment, nor paid much attention to it. He seemed a product of his profession, someone who had unhitched early in order to float through life. The illegitimate Katie, a senior at the University of California Irvine, located her errant father on Facebook a few months before. She notified him that she was a student abroad in Bangkok—if he ever passed through, they should meet for a meal.

And here they were, she sat before him, I sat beside, their first conversation. Both so stoical, devoid of grudge or melodrama, they spoke as perfect strangers. I was disbelieving of the arrangement, certain they were merely exploiting my ignorance. Still, to my amazement, the details of the affair poured in without inconsistency. I appreciated the story. It was a pleasant vacation from the blame-games and bitterness of a broken home.

Passing midnight, the yawns were too difficult to hide. The Spaniards retired to their cigarettes, father and daughter made plans to spend the next day together, and I stood up, as to bow, and wished everyone a good night. Entering the street, I was nearly washed up by the flowing current of interesting people, but I resisted, crossing over to my squalid hotel. Entering my room, leaving the light off, I undressed in the glow of a city still awake.

The Indian Chronicles V







Greetings,
As I promised in our last encounter, each Chronicle lags somewhere in the distant past. I know we are already past Valentine's Day, and I'm sure half of your have already made plans for next Christmas, but let me bring you up to date as much as I can, beginning the last few days of 2008 and taking you up to the now--where I am just hours away of leaving India, behind. Where am I off to in just a few hours? Many places! But if you want to know exactly, you must read--the answers lie somewhere in the text!
-------

My holiday travel began on the island-nation of Sri Lanka. I followed eight others, some family, some who’re friends of the family. Arriving in the capital city, Colombo, 4 hours from taking off on a frost-glazed runway, I had for the first time in my life, left India behind. Sri Lanka had been under the British Empire, as both a proud colony of the British East India Company and a strategic port for harboring naval fleets. Around the time India made its getaway, so didn’t Sri Lanka, achieving independence in 1948. No more than 20 miles off the southern coast of Chennai, Sri Lanka literally operates in India’s shadow but in spite of all the similarities, the 20 million Sri Lankans have their own way of life, not to mention, their own problems. The recent history is one of civil war, concentrated for the most part in the Northern region of the country, it’s a perennial struggle of occupation between the Sri Lankan government and the cause of the Tamil minority, preserved for better or for worse, by the Tamil Tigers, a tightly- banded and tactical terrorist organization. Colombo, in response, is strangled with checkpoints, trying its absolute hardest to separate the murder of the north with the sunbathing of the south. I did not stay long, just enough to see the hatching modernity, cleanly streets, free-flowing traffic, and the pleasant lack of gut-wrenching poverty and pollution—all of which I had lost touch with in India. Amid this aging civil-war, there was surprising evidence of independent progression, as if Sri Lanka was India’s little sister, and for this reason, wanted to be nothing like her.
Four hours south of Colombo, we reached our final destination,. Bentota Beach. This seaside town, burdened by empty hotels, empty-chairs and empty taxis, seemingly had once sold its soul to tourism, but without any more tourists, the complexion of the locals, glum, a bit desperate, suggested that perhaps ‘we should not have.’ The unpeopled landscape, however, provided every bit of reason why, once upon a time, Bentota was a cluttered destination for Germans and Russian Tourists. It was in fact, a splendid looking place—a rich juxtaposition of lush vegetation, velvety sand and pounding surf. Our bed & breakfast, snuggled somewhere in between, was an atmospheric delight. An architectural vision put forth by a rich, voguish English woman, who one winter, collected her severance package and headed to the Sri Lankan seaboard, where she met and married a local fisherman. Together, with her money, and his land, they constructed a five-bedroom villa.
Along the deserted beach, the local men would emerge from the shadowy bush as swarthy, scantily-clad sculptures. For many, their dark straight hair had not been disturbed in years, nor had their lifestyles—from what I could conclude, they had never been apart from the beach; like the breaking waves they surfed, they had no other direction but towards the shore.
I set out early, each morning, walking bare-foot on the warming asphalt that separated a swampy forest. The walk was memorable. As the red sun climbed to its late-morning post, the overhanging mangrove branches reflected pockets of shade, to which I hop-scotched to and fro, occasionally startling a prostrating cow. Once I stepped off the road, onto the sandy path, my friends were always waiting, lounging in between the sling-shot V of a tree, ostensibly where they had slept the night before. We engaged in many activities together; the ones requiring less vocal communication were more successful. We would toss my Frisbee—an activity that on their end proved as challenging as when I attempted to surf. At night, they would invite me to their “parties”—usually at the request I pitch in for alcohol, which I learned after the first night, meant to purchase all of it. This was not asking too much, they had been friendly, they were poor—a little bibulous cheer was the least I could give this Christmas.
My first invitation, occurring Christmas eve, was to be accepted quickly, in between the celebration feast of those that I traveled with. Christmas Eve was an evening that every year hitherto, constituted certain tradition, the faces of certain loved-ones and the evocation of certain emotions. But when the sun sunk below the horizon my first Christmas away from home, I was contently homesick, sitting around a crackling bon-fire, passing around a bottle of “Irak,” a locally distilled spirit, made of crushed coconut, but tasting more of vinegar. Two of the beach boys were wearing Santa hats I’d provided, another banged a bongo drum, interspersing slurred lyrics of Bob Marley into the up-tempo sounds of "Sri Lankan reggae". In this far-distant land, I was reminded of the many summers in Annisquam, where we too, nestled up to a fire, atop soft sand, serenading each other with our motley renditions of Revolution and Buffalo Soldier.
Back at the guest house, the others (Did I mention, “Grammy”, i.e., the wonderful Deb Gardner had made the trip from Gloucester) had assembled my I-Pod speakers and were singing and dancing to music a bit more customary this time a year. Jingle Bells, Frosty the Snow Man and other classic carols revived all of our hazy holiday spirits, and as the bottles uncorked, and the song and dance grew more outrageous, I was at last, celebrating Christmas, rather than reminiscing about it.
After two more sunsets, I was off to the next civilization-by-the-sea. Reentering India, I had taken an early morning flight from Colombo to Goa. Everyone, however, advised I stay clear of it, stay in Sri Lanka, change my plans. The rampage of terror was sure to continue on, the terrorists were still hungry and the flesh was ripe in Goa. I, too, second-guessed my itinerary, but the hype of a New Years in Goa had infected my mind. I was too curious. Eventually, I in fact, found solace in my decision. If I were to exercise good judgment, I would not have been going to Goa in the first place.
Granted, I had not been before, and of course, Tourism is napping across the world, but the Goa I encountered was not groggy. Whether the numbers were lower than seasons in the past, those that made the trip this year wanted to be there. I had seen nothing like it. India, where the majority live hand-to-mouth, in Goa, it’s sand-between-toe. Once colonized by a pious Portugal, Goa could be India’s Catholic keepsake, but surrounded by ceaseless sin, every crucifix that remained seemed to be crooked.
Entering North Goa, I was transplanted into a restless state of being. The bumpity bump of Goan Trance trembled from all directions—but never one, in particular. That ancient promise of debauchery, why the Portuguese disembarked year after year still remained. As if heaven had been sold to the devil, the air and the ocean, seeming fresh and pure at first, was in fact contaminated.
Most would dismiss them as delusional, freeloading hippies, and I agree, such a reputation retains truth, but they were every bit convincing. They live honest lifestyles, not hiding nor downplaying that they were high. The hippies of Goa have no business gazing through the pedestrian and predictable lens of sobriety. Their philosophy instead suggests that the human mind is too vast, too multidimensional for it to waste away on its own—it needs further experiment, it needs more exploration. Let it be said then, although Goa’s 125-kilometer coastline may once have been discovered, it will forever continue to be explored. If you arrived to Goa this morning or 20 years ago, it does not make a difference. From 10pm on, with a water-bottle in hand, the trip for most has just begun.
Who were these people? They were Israeli and Iranian sensualists, forming mini peace agreements on the dance floor; Russian Mafiosos and their porcelain prostitutes. On the beach, there were the hairy, grotesque Indian men, straddling black Speedos—their docile wives trailing behind, bedecked head-to-toe in dark radiant garb, they perspired needlessly. These panting Indian women, sweating products of a chaste culture, were of course juxtaposed to the topless and inconsiderate Europeans. The retired English couples, who were supine, unclothed, did little but sunbathe and squawk. The shriveling French women, as well, were unpleasantly peacockish, spending their days face-down in the buff, naively in the way of those that needed to get by. And the Americans you ask? Well for better or for worst, there weren’t any.
Off to the side, the local Goan women pose as the God-sent beauty of South-East Asia—the Indian, so supernatural in her appearance, the drudgery in which she labors sneaks away and only her face shines. It’s a fresh concept for the American-construct: the pretty living meagerly—but throughout India, the beggar, the weary, the filthy—they behold the eye. For the rich, silk-stocking type, they’re but gluttons—a mid-Elizabethan mindset somehow still resonates here; where pale skin and a pot belly dyes the blue in one’s blood.
The hawkers and peddlers in Goa were of another breed—some playfully frisky, others borderline pestiferous. At times, I was waist deep in the water, seconds from absolute submersion, and a young girl, with her right arm supporting 50 beaded necklaces, trying not to drown, would gurgle, “sir, necklace, very good price.” Or the many inert taxi drivers, as I zipped by them on my rented scooter, would not ask, but insist earnestly that I, already in locomotion, needed their service.
It was almost lunch time, of 2009, when my New Year’s celebration made any hints at last-call. A night-club, so magnificently located, the dance-floor was the beach: the ocean, the restroom. The energy was riveting. It was remarkably not about sex and seduction, my New Years, and everybody else’s, was about movement and space—synergy and sensation. After the 1st, growing more exhausted and emaciated by the day, I had to leave. I packed my bags, kissed my chemical romance goodbye and boarded a bus to Mumbai.
When witnessing one of the largest cities in the world for the first time, you are always on the edge of your seat, but in the case of Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, you’re perched on the outer edge of a moving train, latching on for dear life. From the inside looking out, Mumbai seems to be the most talked about city this year for Americans. Between the international media’s unabated coverage of November’s terrorist attacks and the buzzing success of Slum-Dog Millionaire, I’m sure you all have your own impressions—perhaps some more horrific than others. To me, however, Mumbai was the Indian fantasy. All that I had seen in India up until then, was inconceivably aggrandized—for instance, in Delhi, where four may be saddled to a motor scooter, in Mumbai, there are six. Mumbai, as well as India’s business hub, serves as Bollywood’s center stage—and a little like New York and a tad like LA—Indians are more caught up with self-image, self-expression and self-identity. Fighting for recognition in a pageant of 12 million, many Mumbaites are India’s most unique. They’re goaded by money, driven by success —it is for many, the land of opportunity in a country that offers little. Mumbai, encouragingly, also proceeds with the blindest eye to caste and religion in all of India.
I am illustrating images that may not justify the grazing slums, the day-to-day struggle of those who pick trash and sleep on cement each night, or the many families who lost their loved-ones in one of the greatest surprise triumphs in terrorism, but Mumbai, it seemed, did not indulge itself in sympathy. To slow down and observe, to soften the heart and appreciate the horror, will only lead to an inconvenient fender-bender. Mumbai is an urban culture shaped by the nouveau-riche, and thus, individuals are always swimming upstream. Mumbai’s treasure for most may be just on the other side of the run-way. For others, it’s that next casting-call, striking one more wicket, the nightshift at an emerging call-center or more recently, the chance to go on Want to be a Millionaire. Wherever it is, no one wants to lose momentum, so no one looks back.
No highlight of Mumbai could of course outshine the reunion with my mother Amy and her boyfriend Richard. This time, although traveling a little farther than usual, they had not abandoned the life of luxury. Where ever they turned in India, the feather pillows were fluffed, the masseuses were knocking, and the morning buffets were “please sir, right this way.”
In their first day or two here, retarded by jetlag and stomach-gurgling, they were not exactly sure what to expect. In the next two and ½ weeks, however, from the South to the North, they delicately scraped off all of India’s delights—the food, the shopping and the sunlight—and by the time they reached us in Delhi, their final destination of the trip, they were rhapsodic about the place. As if India had been once a googly-eyed monster, but as they grew more acquainted, sipped his tea, he was in fact, a friendly creature. They are not alone in this respect. For so many who travel to India, it seems, what was strange when you arrived is special when you leave.
Once we split in Mumbai, I was butted by a hankering to return to Goa, which, in the darkness of night, I did. I won’t continue to blather about another week of sun-basking and merry-making but I will say, in my spontaneous return, I did feel just how thin the line is, between just arriving for another week and remaining there for a lifetime. I told everyone I would visit again soon, but between you and me, I dare not go back—ever.
Through and through, the experiences have been great—and less misfortunate than the saga in Chennai. Once I resettled in Delhi, where I have been the last month, I took a paid-assignment for the International Center for Research on Women (ICRW), helping with the writing, editing and publishing process of a report, assessing various micro-credit programs in India and their impact on women’s empowerment. The experience, to work at a very respectable Indian research-center as the only non-Indian, was fruitful and rewarding.
In about four hours, I fly to Bangkok, trading my expatriate badge of India in for a grimy tourist-visa—to again trespass aimlessly in someone else’s country. As I’ve stated, my plans upon arriving, are frighteningly unstructured. As I’ve stated before, I would like to make my way South, following what Lonely Planet refers to as the ‘Beach Cure’ passing through South Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and on into Indonesia, hopping between Bali and a few other sun-drenched islands—ending in the untold mystery of Jakarta.
I do know however, my time is not as boundless as it once was. My recent acceptance into the Peace Corps somewhere in West Africa, with a departure date in August (pending I am not carrying too many latent viruses) will rush me around the US, making my rounds and wishing everyone, once again, a farewell—though this one—to be much longer.
I can’t wait to see all of you. If I had to guess, I’ll be back in the refurbished United States by mid-April. But of course, an on-the-fly Chronicle of South-East Asia should precede my physical homecoming.
Happy President's Day!
Richard

The Indian Chronicles IV

Greetings from Goa!
A belated merry Christmas, Happy New Year and an advanced 'hip hip hooray' for the Inauguration just around the corner. As you've probably gathered, each Chronicle is emailed a month or so after the experience in which I reflect about. This one is no different. Although, I have covered much ground since we last met, I can not jump the gun--I must remain true to the chronology I've set forth. Below takes you back, just to where we left off. On my way to South India. Enjoy!
In my first descent to South India, the sun rose with fiery promise—beaming a reflection of levity, warm-heartedness and laziness I hadn't seen in the North. However, for all her warmness while I was there, the sunset was not pretty. She sunk unnoticed, amid an unforecasted squall of misfortune.
The largest city on the south-eastern coast, Chenai, once Madras, was not to be handsome or terrifically tropical, but a valuable city nonetheless. Valuable, in its own right, as a sound sanctuary for south Indian culture. Still, undeniably in Bombay's shadow, Chenai breathes without the cosmopolitan fluff and western indulgence. No instead, food grubbing, lungi's* and the Tamil language are the norm—all conventions to be considered animalistic in the upper-crust, old money circles of Delhi.
*Cloth, swathed around the waist of a man, insofar as to call it a skirt.
The same Indian pandemonium and pollution reeks, but here, its scented with the salty air of a forlorn sea. The roads even more clogged and the equatorial heat, which befriends the scalding pavement and sooty exhaust, come together to release unbreathable smoke like that of burning plastic. On the surface, the neighborhoods along the coast appeared unusually egalitarian. However, when I voiced this observation, a local responded, "the poor? They were washed away with the tsunami." A theory, need I say, wrenched my heart.
My being there had much to do with an ultimate Frisbee tournament. Eight teams had journeyed from all across India to take part in a round-robin contest. We, being the most American rooted team thought we would cake walk end-zone to end-zone, leaving the bulk of competition, all of whom, Indian-born, beseeching for our autographs. Hell, we invented the sport! But…the curse of cockiness curled our throws and cramped our muscles; what we anticipated and what took place bred humiliation of nth degree. We were the Soviets, with the ice still in our veins, denied the Gold and by who? Amateurs, a litter of copy-cats that took the American import and ran with it.
Once defeat had been swallowed and digested, and my teammates hurried back to their jobs in Delhi, I, having been invited to my first Indian wedding had to stay on. With a few days to kill before the 'auspicious' morning, I fled the grungy stew of Chennai and headed for fresher air. Pondicherry, another coastal city four hours south draws tourists alike for its French flavor—France's piece of the pie in the colonial free-for-all India once was. I, myself, a closet Francophile was not thoroughly impressed. The Gallic architecture was there, but you could easily tell, as time passed, the Indians had painted a few shabby coats of their own, For the most part, the Indo-French culture was wearing thin, but what thankfully remained were the outdoor-seating cafes. One in particular proved delightful. Sipping a frothy cappuccino, I relaxed and recharged, for little did I know, le bon vie only had a few hours left.
I rarely offer any real travel advice in the Chronicles, but when an incident unfolds so nefariously, yet so easily avoidable, I will with great obligation, bewail an episode of hard-luck, not as a chronicle, but as a precious lesson to you, but more myself: "Richard, the Traveling Clutz."
One afternoon, as I was waltzing northward, switching from one dilapidated bus to another, the thickening fuliginous sky signaled I was near to where I needed (not wanted) to be. I was making great time. Punctual as a priest to Sunday mass, I was sure to make it to Chenai airport for my departing flight. In fact, two hours before take-off, I had enough time to dicker with a rickshaw driver over 200 rupees, but hard-pressed, I pursued a recommended alternative, delivered in broken English, "bus—airport—abi."
Indeed, among the milling crowd of this nameless Chennai suburb, the approaching bus read, for all 137,367,876 eyes to see, AIRPORT.
In India, buses rarely arrive at a stand-still. They simply accelerate and decelerate. A complete stop would be opening the floodgates too wide—the hordes would gush in too quick. So instead, it's roadside Darwinism. Only the fastest and most ferocious can ride.
With some practice, not a lot, darted towards the transient bus. A gladiator as such, I wrestled for space and fought for air—anything it took to repel the cascading flock. Emerging, I regaled. I was king of the mountain…or so I thought.
Somewhere in the stampede, I had been outfoxed, defiled, my invincibility kaput. I was the protagonist in the classic tale of traveling pick-pocketing. Yes, I had made it aboard, but my wallet, passport and camera had not.
"Stop!!" I bellowed and dismounted from the bus. In some South-East Indian hinterland, with a heart racing and a face paling, I gazed over some three-hundred culprits, and wondered what one does now? My wallet, bearing the high-value bulk of my most recent withdraw, both my credit cards and driver's license, my US passport with my Indian visa and a camera, brimming with memories of the trip, yes, withhold judgment, were all concentrated into the same zippered pouch. I was a sailboat that had suddenly capsized, with all hatches open and each fender untied.
No one spoke English. My flight was in an hour and my ability to remain calm, in the hours to come, was acutely going to be tested. Photo-IDless and penniless, I boarded another bus. Weighed by despondency, I stuck out not just as a white-skinned vagrant, but a white-skinned vagrant on the verge of a cosmic melt-down. Six school boys, still clad in proper uniform acted upon their immediate curiosity to my current state of misery and asked what had happened—in intermediate English. Short of breath, I let body language express the vicissitude of the last half hour; fluttering, squealing, but nevertheless, communicating, the young boys understood my desperation. Making my flight, they assumed was of most importance to me—and I suppose at the time it was. Predicament had me cornered, but my departing flight held promise. Promise to escape this sweltering, Dravidian hellhole if not with my personal belongings, at least all limbs intact.
The young boys, together, represented me, expressing to the rest of the bus my current hardship. Before I knew it, lower-class Indians, with little but rags for clothes and dirt on their hands passed around a hat, each contributing to me: the rich, strange, foolhardy American.
I could have used my energy more constructively. The flight, long-gone by the time I had reached the airport proved that fleeing the crime was appallingly counter-productive. Without the police's observance—in document form of the incident, I had not a hope to board a flight in a country recently zonked by terrorism. Here, there and beyond, the school boys would not leave my side. When we first returned to the scene, the policemen on patrol insisted I'd identify the perpetrator. A feat, even by Hardy-Boy standards, would be impossible—especially considering that two hours now had passed and for all I knew, the sneaky crook already had fronted two month's rent, booked a flight to Boston, and had his family holding a still pose, as he searched for the viewfinder of his new Cannon digital camera.
So, squooshed into the back of a cruiser, we diverted to the station. A dusty dungeon of prehistoric office equipment including: rusting type writers, and glossy, see-through paper for tracing—the most pervasive method of photocopying I've seen through India. I sat, of course. Just as I learned in my first experience (see Chronicle 1) in a Delhi police station, one must always remain seated. The school boys converted my English into Tamil out loud and on paper. One grizzly-haired man, perhaps an administrative assistant handed me a boiling cup of tea and with utmost confidence, maintained I had come to India on a Christian mission. "No, I have not sir." Speechless, but more because he was at a loss for more English, he disengaged.
Hours passed, but the same procedural tedium remained the exact same. "Sir, please write the name of your father on this line" and that line or in that space or on this document. Bureaucrats in this country, you will quickly learn, fixate themselves on paternal lineage. The designated box: Father's Name may even precede the box of your own.
By now, my cell phone was receiving the calls of worried mothers, of all whom, were notified much earlier with my number that their sons would not be home in time for dinner. While the police were still disputing the spelling of my father's prename, I had a minute to semi convince the boys I would be okay and that they should run along; my sister had arranged other help on the way. And so they did, against their gentle will. We hugged farewell; my eyes drizzling with tears.
There's nothing that I love more about Indians than their kindness of strangers. The inevitable crack of the smile if eyes lock or their teddy-bear indifference to a pat on the back. These four boys, Raj Kumar, Mohan, Frank and RK were hallmarks of the selflessness anchored into the hearts of so many Indians. And not yet, is it the wily pickpockets, so-called corrupt politicians and inept police force that make the final difference here. It is the four boys' and the millions and millions of Indians like them who know benevolence and nothing else. India is a daring experiment, both in its overpopulation and fragmentation, but it carries on, cautiously, clinging to the age-old promise, Gandhi himself, entrusted—truth and love will always win.
I did in fact return safely to New Delhi the following morning. I went straight to the American Embassy and filled out the proper paperwork for a new passport. I purchased a new camera, and spent the next four days, again, clambering through the muck of Indian Bureaucracy trying to reinstate my stolen visa. In the 11th hour, a day or so before my flight to Sri-Lanka, I located the only woman who was not preset by a clockwork. She was by all accounts more biological than the other bobbling-head androids I dealt with. She spoke and then she listened, and what she possessed, was an imagination. Staggeringly, she unearthed my paperwork among the sky-scraping clutter, and with just an ink-stamp and my trust, she reissued my visa—free of charge.
India, once more, revealed its schizophrenia. Like I found in Chennai, for all the unforgiving, the compassionate will always be on call. And for all the jostling and jolting, you'll always meet gentle embrace. I will continue to regard India, as I've said before, not just as episodic ups and downs, but as an ever-unfolding debacle—and to be frank, one I have really come to appreciate.
Stay tuned, a couple of weeks, for Chronicle # 5: it's sure to be the best so far! Raw with nostalgia from a wonderful and rapturous voyage through Sri Lanka, Goa, Bombay, and back to Goa.

The Indian Chronicles III

Hello All!
In my hopes to debunk some of the floating allegations of abandonment and or death, I want to present this chronicle for all of you to be rest assured, I am still flying high. I must admit—taking on a few more commitments—I’m denied some of the time that once was devoted to the Chronicle. I promise, once I leave Delhi and start more rigorous traveling, I will once again, proliferate.
Tonight, the diary opens on the eve of Diwali—India’s most anticipated and arousing holiday. With the same contagious rapture Christmas time brings to the streets, Delhi’s marketplaces and residential neighborhoods are brightly festooned with vibrant stringing lights. The homecoming dash of family appears no different than the “there’s no place like home” attitude during the American holiday season; and might I add, where congestion and chaos already vegetates the flow of movement, “Gee… the traffic is terrific!!” Even more impressive than the traffic however, are the exploding skies. For the past week, the deafening crackle of recreational fireworks shakes the powdery dust off the ground. The spattering eruptions and choking smoke would honestly lead you to believe that Hitler’s Luftwaffe reemerged—air-striking Delhi’s skyline into sheer smithereens. As well as fireworks, other dicey activities such as card-playing have seeped into the popular tradition of Dewali. Leading up to the holiday, friends and family gather around tables, hoodwinking one another, while chancing their heard-earned rupees in various poker sequences. This year, sadly, the celebration’s celestial potential is dampened by the hardship of the year’s terrorism and economic languish but if you ask all the shell shocked, whimpering canines—they’d be sure to tell you that Diwali is as ballistic as usual.
To bring all of you up to date—I have begun working for a highflying and snowballing Delhi-rooted NGO, by the fetching name of Goonj (www.goonj.org) In the late 1990’s, the founder of the organization Anshu Gupta, spent one curious afternoon following his local mortician on his daily route—only to discover that this mortician during the colder months of winter, exercised a small business on-the-side. Despite what you may have heard of India’s inexorable heat, Delhi, especially around Christmas, can be a chilly place—and for those that live on the streets—it is at times unbearable. So unbearable, this mortician earned an extra stipend by leasing freshly diseased bodies to the shivering homeless—all of whom relied on the fleeting warmth and increased weight of a corpse to survive the bracingly cold nights. Aghast, as I assume you’re as well, Anshu was struck both by how tragic such an unfathomable reality was but more, how possible a prevention could be. That New Years, after stuffing their car full with the heaviest clothing and blankets they could find, Anshu and his wife drove around Delhi, distributing a less- macabre source of warmth. Goonj, from that point on has addressed the fundamental necessity of clothing—which surprisingly, is often grossly overlooked in the grand scheme of India’s development.
Owing to Goonj’s clear-vision and creativity, the organization recently won the World Bank’s “Development Market” award and more impressively, “India’s NGO of the year (2007).” For you all who were in my Social Entrepreneurship seminar, let it be said, Anshu is also an Ashok Fellow. Above all, I assist with writing: writing anything from newsletters, reports to catchy slogans but in the next few weeks, I will take on a responsibility much more engrossing. With Goonj, I’ll volunteer in the far-flung villages of rural Bihar—an area of northern India that always has been unrivaled in poverty and disarray but as of late, a result of a catastrophic flood, is in an unprecedented state of crisis. Take some time to check out the website and find out how you can “spread the Goonj.”
November, already in mid-bloom, has yielded much reason to celebrate. Needless to say, Obama’s victory made crashing headlines as Indians and expats alike, expressed fondness to America’s radical make-over. I will happily report that already, the reception for the American abroad is on the brink of a grand renovation—and as sad as I am not to be in Washington for the momentous inauguration, I am equally delighted to travel with my head up high; dangling, not burying my blue-covered passport.
I’ve recently ran the Delhi ½ marathon—by far, the most disproportionate running event I’ve ever taken part in—where police outnumbered spectators 20 to 1. Nevertheless, to run freely on the regularly clogged roads provided a rare opportunity—but running in Delhi is like swimming in the Hudson—withstanding the pollution, in itself, poses the greatest challenge.
The longer that I am here, the less noticeable the debacle-du-jour’s seem. I’m sure the debacles still spring up, but constantly blending together, they have lost all episodic distinction. In order to reside in a place as different as India, maintaining both your composure and concentration, you mustn’t continue to dwell but rather, desensitize yourself to the never-ending unpredictability. In essence, you must submit yourself to India. At first, her every whim will unstitch the very seams of your patience, the threads of your temper, but once it rips, let it rip entirely. You’re then free—free to be at peace with her mercurial nature. Free to gaze in the eyes of the unicorn and accept her as just another horse.
I realized something ripped when the other day, jogging, I ran past a man pedaling a bicycle with a washer machine tied around his back. When before, in America, I would take a second, maybe even a third glance to the occasional mattress tied around someone’s car roof—I looked at this man, as devil-may-care as he was, performing perhaps the greatest display of strength and balance the world has ever seen, with deadpan indifference. Stomping elephants, horse and buggies, pet monkeys on motor scooters, a man lassoing a cow—it’s as if you woke up every morning front-row at the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus.
After two grounded months in New Delhi, the starting gun will sound this weekend. For the next 6 months, easing in gradually, I will start to shed the ties of fixed residence. In the company of “The Stray Dogs” my ultimate Frisbee team here in Delhi, I’ll be headed to the southern port of Chennai for India’s one and only ultimate beach tournament. I’ll also spend a day and a night in Pondicherry. A place that owes a lot to its French settlers, Pondicherry hopes to offer a much more laid-back, congenial version of India. Once I return to Delhi, it will only be a few days until I head north-east, to Bihar, where I’ll experience firsthand the same grueling reality that almost 70 percent of all Indians experience—rural subsistence. Not long after, I’ll join the rest of my sister’s family for a white Christmas—be it, white sand—on the southern coast of Sri Lanka. Naturally, in the days leading up to New Years Eve, I’ll rush to the world-famous beaches of Goa to join the spate of dreadlocked hippies and recently discharged Israeli’s for what’s to be the wildest NYE celebration in all of Asia. If still standing, I am to meet my mother and Richard in Mumbai, fritter rupees away in India’s largest and most flourishing city for a week or two and hop a flight back to Delhi. Saying my goodbyes in Delhi, just in time for its unpleasant cold, I’ll runaway again—beginning in Bangkok. At first, while my bank account seems strong, I’ll swagger around Thailand, Malaysia and once my money runs low, I’ll stagger through Singapore and Indonesia. Along the way, we’ll be sure not to lose touch. Squiggling in a journal and trawling internet cafes, I will do my best to keep all of you abreast.

While I have your attention, I want to report about my loyal friend from A.U., Aaron, who some of you may know, others may not. Aaron Susman, following through with his plans to join Peace Corps, has safely arrived in Burkina Faso—a north-western nation of Africa, that, in top contention for the poorest country in the world, will promise to provide an exceptionally demanding assignment. Over the course of his first month and ½, we’ve spoken frequently via my Skype account to his cell phone—by the far—the only way to reach him (+22675525060).. Shockingly, Wi-Fi has yet to infuse his mud-hut. Currently, he’s amid his 3-months of intensive language and cultural training but after Christmas, he will decamp to his post to begin his two years of service. He will live in a northern Burkina village, a stone’s throw from the Mali border. Far removed from any city, he’ll subsist as the only Peace Corps representative within 70 kilometers, in one of the most arid, futile and sulfurous desserts in all of Africa.
Once he arrives to the village, Aaron’s to head a project that encourages sustainable independence through a fuel alternative known as “japropha.” Despite his already bedridden outbreak of Malaria, sharing his bedroom with lizards and cockroaches of comparable size, and accepting the fact he’ll only eat three variations of millet for the next 25 months, he still expresses crisp commendation for his decision to join.
And to think, it was my sparkling idea that one day, he and I should join the Peace Corps together that ultimately led him, literally, to muffle in the African bush. So in all fairness, let me announce here, once everything is all said and done in South-East Asia, I’ve decided to uphold my end of the deal. If all goes as planned, next Fall will witness the launch of a two-year Chronicle Series. Set where? To be announced but chances are, I’ll be like Aaron, whom, after receiving initial word of his host-country and capital, frantically sprinted to the nearest computer and kindly asked Google where in the world is Ouagadougou? Three weeks later, he now calls it home.
If we could rewind a few weeks, I’ll gently put this chronicle to rest with a bittersweet story of my visit to the Taj Mahal...
Seeing as the outward bound train from Delhi to Agra, the homeland of the Taj Mahal, was booked full for the next 22 years, I opted for the bus. The buses in India always prove to be the more inexpensive mode of transport, but even here, where rationality has little role, there is a clean-cut reason why the buses are the cheapest. A train is attached to the track, a plane is eventually bound by gravity, but when you sit in an Indian tour-bus, you’re the foolish coachman who forgot his whip. In the hours to come, the fickle horse had free rein.
I was to board the bus at 6:30 am at the travel office I booked the ticket in Connaught Place—Delhi’s largest commercial district. I learned fast when I arrived, at 6:20 am, the long line of eager tourists I had expected were nowhere to be found—but still, the office was eerily open. Inside, homeless and half-clad Indian men slept on the very same desks I had just purchases my ticket on the day before. I was literally stepping over bodies as I looked for clues to where my bus was. I walked back outside to the empty sidewalks and metal caged markets; astonished that for how lively the streets are during the day, New Delhi was currently sound asleep. Except for the monkeys trapezing from the rooftops, I was surrounded by more snoring men outside—most of them—ever-so reassuringly were security guards. Eventually, around 7:30, still alone, I almost resigned; but right before, a man approached me, who in broken English, claimed to know of this mythological bus. “Come to me” as he pointed towards his car. I followed him and so did a new comer, who just arrived on the scene—an Indian fellow who knew to arrive one hour and ten minutes late rather than myself, who arrived ten minutes early. After 15 minutes or so, we approached a block congested with long rectangular buses. Again, ungrammatically, he verbalized and pointed to a particular bus. I hopped aboard, experiencing the shameful limelight that a person who is late and lonesome, receives when walking down the aisle of a bus. As the only non-Indian to be seated, I was a walking wellspring of curiosity for most. Discovering an empty seat, I gestured for permission from a pot-bellied man but like so many Indians, especially the thousands of rickshaw drivers I transact with, he propped up the same inconclusive half-nod, half head-shake. So I sat—if he wanted me elsewhere—I assumed he would have snubbed more convincingly.
The bus sat idle for about another hour. Once we began moving, we of course had to stop for fuel—why would anyone ever think to fill the gas-tank before embarking on a 4 hour drive? Continuing on, now almost half past ten, we drove beyond the ostensible city limits of Delhi and merged onto the thoroughfare. As soon as the self-appointed tour leader delivered a verbose instruction in Hindi, without the customary follow-up in English, I knew I was on a tour catered exclusively to the preferences and peculiarities of the Indian-born.
What followed was a day of shall we call—bustration: optimal frustration evoked by a bus. After a luncheon on-the-fly and intermittent road-side urination, we arrived in Agra just a few hours before sunset. Without delay, I was thrown into a frenzy of peddling predators—unable to bare— my distrust succumbed to my restlessness and I paid some hapless swindler to advance me past the queue.
When you visit the Taj Mahal, you’re not to lay eyes on it until you walk beyond the barricades and take your first left. The moment it comes into focus, you feel you have just arrived in Candy Land. The Taj Mahal’s magnificence, call it ethereal, call it surreal, but in my opinion, it’s in its ability to appear entirely fake. Photos always project it more as an optical illusion, but even with your naked eye, it renders the same untruthfulness as a two-dimensional backdrop does of a Broadway stage
I made earnest efforts to avoid the possibility of being left behind; but as I should have predicted, such hurry would pan out as another superfluous act of punctuality. At long last, the passengers returned to their seats, including the customary hitchhikers. As a tourist in India, you learn quickly that one person’s tour bus serves as another person’s public transit. What you may consider a site visit, the fellow dangling out the backdoor, considers his stop.
That evening, I promise you, we paused and resumed more than a San Francisco trolley. It was the birthday of Gandhi and I suppose in a special salute to a preacher of all faiths, we stopped at every place of worship between Agra and Delhi. Somehow 8pm gave way to 10pm and 10pm summoned midnight and we hadn’t traveled more than 25 miles from the Taj Mahal. At one point, at 2am in the morning, our recent progress convinced me we were finally homeward bound—but once again, implausibility prevailed—and we stopped for dinner. Nearing sunrise, we entered a lifeless New Delhi. Almost 24 hours had elapsed on my trip to the Taj and my state of mind, had it not been so sluggish, would had been murderous. I was awoken by one of the driver’s helpers, a husky man of sort. While jostling my shoulder, he asked me where I lived. I responded listlessly, “Golf Links”—
“Number?”
“91” I told him--too tired to reckon why he asked. Shutting my eyes again, I faded back into sleepy hatefulness but before long, was awoken by the sudden stillness of the bus. I straightened my slack neck enough to view out the window—and not yet differentiating reality from a dream—I felt the presence of something very familiar. I will never know why or for what reason, but in the morning mist of that early autumn morning, a tour-bus literally keeling over with Indian men, women and children pulled directly in front of my residence.
There I was—both shocked and flattered--having never felt so special nor embarrassed in all my life. How should I approach this I wondered? As a walk of shame: droopy, on my tiptoes? Or was I to strut, boasting a big chest as if I were on a red carpet? I gathered my things, which of course proved disruptive, as my camera, Ipod, photos and trash were scattered helter-skelter beneath and between seat cushions. Rising to my feet, I treated the moment—as I treat most of my moments here—once-in-a-life-time. Out I went. At first, marching, but as my sleeping security guard came into view, I made sure to lighten my step.
If a tour leaves three hours after its scheduled time. If tour-buses pick up hitchhikers. If 250 rupees can advance you past an entire line. And if I can be dropped off at my personal address in a bus of over 50 passengers, wouldn’t it sound silly to you to wake my security guard while he's sleeping on the job?
From that October morning and every passing minute since, I've discovered the obvious answer in India is not often the preferred one.
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I wish everyone a succulent Turkey! To my usual Thanksgiving crew, I'm stuffed with envy.
Attached (or below) are some more photos. I know, the laundry basket costume returned once again but I thought, being on the other side of the world and all, it had one more Halloween left in it.
Will some one let me know how the Bradyless Patriots are doing?

The Indian Chronicles II
















Hope everyone is happy, healthy and braced up for the big election! I have attended a few Democrats Abroad happy hours myself and without question, the Indian expat community, if called upon, is poised to make the difference!

The Regular Rambling
A few weeks have now passed since the launch of the Indian Chronicles. During our time apart, I have diligently embraced the dramatic relocation of South-East Asia. To my credit, I’ve digested the curry, maneuvered the crowds, bargained the rickshaws, and befriended a tailor. I’ve kept both my head and balance in the caprice of the Indian culture; a culture that buoys its reputation flawlessly. The thrilling mélange of color, spice, smell and widespread bizarreness proves to be as wonderful as it is whiplashing. For many things unfamiliar, I’ve acquired fascination, enjoyment but of greatest importance, a sense of tolerance.

In this world of difference, if you do not learn how to be tolerant, in particular, patient, you ought to as well stay on the runway. Patience, however, is more a virtue for the outsider. It protects you against the endemic impatience found within India. As an American, according to the whole world, we too, are always in a hurry. But here in India, the hurry is different. Here, hurry makes things align evenly, fall into place correctly. Hurrying, it seems in Delhi, is accomplished so simultaneously, the city slows down more than speeds up. I read in Time Out, Delhi’s hippest magazine, that every day, over 110 million traffic violations occur on the road, scientifically concluding that if a driver follows the formal rules laid out, the driver increases his risk for an accident exponentially. India’s anarchical nature—as many would similarly argue towards the corruption in the government—needs to be left unbothered for the society to fully function. In America, where rules define every action, the only upshot of our hurried nature appears to be in our continual coffee stains and fender-benders.

I’ve come to view India as a gigantic slightly-opened treasure chest—with 1/3 of the population who live inside, 1/3 of the population who cling to the side and 1/3 who live completely outside. Those that live inside were either born there or have lifted themselves up and over. Those that cling, cling because they can—thanks to the last few decades of improved socio-economic condition. Lastly, those that remain at the bottom of the chest may not even know about the treasure inside— just as the 1/3 living inside—have no way of seeing what’s outside. The treasure chest both separates and blinds the population from one another— breeding complacency on the top and breeding complacency on the bottom—leaving the clingers in the middle to test the degree of social mobility available in the current system. Some days, I’m overly impressed with the high quality of life in New Delhi; the rich sophistication and liberal expression presented in their fashion, architecture, art, literature, language and general decorum could compete with any progressive culture. Inside the many McDonalds, hundreds of teenagers exchange mobile numbers, discuss their plans to study abroad and devour Big Mac’s recreated with chicken. Other days, however, I am not so impressed.

I have adjusted to the of pungent smell and the heaps of garbage, but what I have not and cannot adjust to is the tattered 4-year old, whom, without any chaperone, ruffles through the rotten trash with the eerie resemblance of how his privileged contemporaries, ruffle through pits of plastic balls. Past midnight, the sidewalks of Delhi resemble a fenceless refugee encampment—though these tens of thousands of homeless are Indian born, displaced outside not by a civil war or hurricane, but by the mere misfortune of a wretched fate. The misery of India begins and ends in its inequality. Its segregation is as multi-dimensional as the treasure chest I speak of, and depending if you’re in, out, or in between the golden treasure, mother India can be kind or she can be cruel.

Let us move away from the miracles and failings of India and focus a little more on what I’ve been up to. Quite frankly, I’ve been up to a lot! In the course of no more than three weeks, I’ve ascended to the highest peaks in the world. I’ve swam in perhaps the holiest water on Earth and I have stood face to face with one of man’s greatest creations. To say the least, I’m terribly grateful to be handed this one-in-a-life-time opportunity (to which I mainly owe to my sister, Gabrielle and her family for without them, I may have never come within a 1,000 miles of India!) I do plan to share my prolonged bus ride to the Taj Mahal and action-packed camping weekend on the Ganges River but I have specially reserved this chronicle to thaw out my memories of a colder India; a breathtaking hideaway, lodged into the Himalayas, where the heavens truly meet the earth.
7 Days in Little Tibet
An hour north of Delhi-snuggled beneath the lofty, snow strewn peaks of the Himalayas, A Buddhist oasis known as Ladakh still manages to breathe fresh air in a politically polluted region of Northern India. Commonly refered to as 'Little Tibet', the Ladakh region, located in the notoriously disputable Jammu and Kashmir province, has removed itself from the border-wars between India and Pakistan. Gruesome violence, that without cease, has defined the way of life for the common Kashmiri. Instead, the Ladakhi people are the proud products of Buddhist philosophy—where the silence of tranquility and the goodwill of compassion can only whisper at the side of thunderous explosions and rampant firings. In light of this, as one of the few preservations of peace in the Indian Himalayas, Ladakh is unsurprisingly the cradle of northern tourism. Since the early 1970’s, when the first Westerner unveiled his pale skin—Leh, the capital of the Ladakh region—developed utterly conscientious of the fruitful rewards tourism can provide. Today, downtown Leh teems with internet café’s, Patagonia fleeces, scrambled egg breakfasts, hotels, and enough spoken and written English to rival Wichita, Kansas. Between May and October, herds of European tourists—in particular the French—suffuse the shops and sidewalks. After a few days trekking the wondrous mountain side, frozen but also sun scorched foreigners return and rapidly thaw amidst the peaceful warmth of the locals.

The local Ladakhi is a living being unlike any other. Wearing skin as tough and rigid as the bark of an Old Sequoia tree and bearing smiles so bright, they too, could melt a solar ice cap. The young girls all possess a common beauty as raw, rugged and unspoiled as the ground they walk on. Each, in their own style, reveals the oneness with nature Pocahontas may have only achieved. The older generations mosey freely with a hunchback and the same weathered mystique of a Victorian Armoire.

As I briefly mentioned—with the surging influx of foreign visitors and the town’s commitment to accommodate every Tom, Dick and Harry, the locals surely have created an acute awareness of the modern world. Materialism, at a growing rate, leaks out of the traveling suitcases and sticks to the daily lives of the locals. All around Leh, Buddhist monks who are swathed head to toe in homespun robes blab way on their cell phones. Young boys mobilize their gun-touting Rambo’s into battle while the girls braid Barbie’s blond hair. In school, English is the medium and the local Ladakhi language is but only one subject. An educated mind might assume that a Himalayan community, 10,000 feet in the sky among few resources and an extreme climate could be protected from the swelling effects of globalization. However, the reality is quite different here. Jeopardizing a thousand years of frugality, ecological balance and social harmony, Leh has emerged as an overnight globalized sensation.

Not all is lost in Ladakh. From the very beginning, Ladakhis and the Earth joined hands in a spectacular co-evolution that still amazes the outsider of today. Even more remarkable is the human and animal relationship. Cows, goats, donkeys and dogs all play a role in the friendly environment. So much so—Leh’s claustrophobic presence of farm animals could easily be mistaken as a sprawling petting zoo without fences. During the coldest months, when all the tourists have scattered, the animals are granted their turn to reap the kind treatment of the locals. If you are a shivering, seasonal depressed Mammal? Bird? Or even a straggling reptile? The Ladakhi’s want to welcome you into their house— equipped with a first floor that is both four-legged friendly and comfortably heated. A wrinkly old man with emerald eyes gleefully explained to me that as long as the animals yield the goods and labor during the harvest season, winter room & board will always be available.

When I descended into Leh, I soon discovered that Leh is not only breathtakingly beautiful but downright, breathtaking. Neither my ski getaways to Mt. Sunapee, my four marathon finishes, nor the many Dave Mathews Concert tailgates I engaged in my unruly youth had prepared me to how high and out-of-breath I was during my first few hours teetering the topmost peaks of the planet. My first day was spent with winded nausea and a pulsing headache. But after a hard day’s rest, I acclimatized like an unraveling kite. In no time, the air thickened and my stride quickened and my adventure was poised to reach even greater heights!

My first day’s uplifting was distinctively spiritual. Having just arrived, I was confident my exotic tales of middle class America and my shiny Ray Ban sunglasses would without question galvanize the local folk and espouse me as an instant celebrity. I’m sure this would have been the case had the successor to the Dali Lama not been staying in the house next to me. Setting aside my jealousy, I joined the many Ladakhis in line (and I mean the few hundred) and awaited my turn to meet the Karmapa. The Karmapa, who by birth, heads one of the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism, fled Tibet at a young age to study under the Dalai Lama. Due to the impending fear that the Chinese government will choose the next Dalai Lama, many Tibetan Buddhists have rallied around this young man as their future spiritual leader. When it was my turn, the Karmapa, appearing no older than me, immediately sensed my inexperience to the formalities of a Buddhist greeting. When I clumsily forwent the customary bow for the insipid handshake, he allayed his insulted body guard, whispering in English, “it’s okay,” and cheerfully shook my hand.

The first half of the week, I spent perusing the shops, day hiking up and around the outskirts of Leh and dining at the same cheery restaurant, Summer Harvest, energized by the cacophonous clatter of 6 different languages spoken simultaneously. The local cuisine consisted of two basic staples—momos and mutton and more often than not, I colored within the lines and ordered a tasty little combination of the two known as a mutton momo. At every restaurant in Ladakh and I am also now noticing it more in Delhi is the he’s Western therefore he needs Ketchup assumption. Regardless if you order chow mien or a hot fudge Sunday, if you’re white, your food should be red. Someone like me, who has always approached ketchup with enthusiasm and an open-mind, is only reinforcing to Indian hospitality that all Americans are foaming at the mouth for more ketchup.

The next thing more dangerous than driving in the jostling traffic of Delhi is careening over the ice and snow-ridden overpasses 17,000ft into the Himalayas. What’s even more frightening? Some government official has convinced that the safety of mountainous driving lies more in the wittiness of the warning sign than the presence of guardrails. As if a local kindergarten class headed the project, rotting wood in drippy paint reads: “speed thrills but kills” or “don’t get risky with whiskey.”

What’s even more frightening? The magnitude of danger that rises uncontrollably when the driver of the car is either too ill-equipped or too much of a brash individualist to combat the slippery roads with the proper chain apparatus. Like the toddler who forgets his ice skates but still has his stick, we disadvantageously fought for friction. After two long days, driving to the threshold of the solar system and back down, I will readily attest to the peril.

In our two attempts to reach Lake Pangong, we trucked through whiteouts, we sanded frozen surfaces and we shoveled out of snow banks. On a few occasions, the Grim Reaper, himself, almost had his way with us but we were too much in a hurry to even bother to stop for tea, let alone, lengthier time-consuming interruptions like death. 9 hours or so later, we were afforded our first peek. Between two symmetrical mountains, the lake revealed its placid existence. Drawing closer, the multihued and florescent water transiently glistened, while the brisk wind layered ripples to prove that the lake was not frozen. The water’s edge expanded 85 miles east—passing decently beyond the Tibetan (Chinese) border. With both feet in an India that until now, had only stripped me bare of privacy and personal space, I simultaneously found myself standing in the shadow of another ghastly overpopulated civilization—but somehow, someway--there seemed not to be the faintest murmur of human life. I was sandwiched between 1/3 of the world’s entire population, but yet in my whole life, had I never felt more alone with the planet. The cold breeze and the imminent nightfall pressured us to continue on, but as I stood dwarfed by the surrounding mountains and squint-eyed from the fleeting fusions of navy, light and baby blue, I imagined how pleasurable Earth’s inevitable inhabitation will be. I took a few last photos, snapped out of my sappy awe and revisited the snug backseat for what would transpire as a blockbuster sequel in Himalayan snow escapades.

The wintry bliss reached its end in jolting abruption, obliging me to bid farewell to the simplistic and soulful authenticity of the Ladakhi people. Granted I have not shaken all the palm trees and traversed all the mountainsides, I’m still certain I experienced one of the few remaining existences that actually pulsates the way we are supposed to. A value system truly remarkable, where work and leisure are not differentiated and one single wedding may last for weeks. Leading by real example, the Ladakhis’ quaint and quiet nature reminds the industrial world how simple a formula happiness really is.

When I landed back into Delhi, passing through the sliding doors of the airport, I was at once, regurgitated back into the sensual tailspin of smog, dust and flesh. Still in a Buddhist state of mind--I was not ready. I was still trustworthy of the human heart. I hadn’t had a debacle du jour in the last 8 days and I almost had forgotten what one was. But in typical fashion, the Indian capital delivered, and once again, I was waist-deep in a debacle…

In my fog of optimism, I accepted my first offer for a taxi but like the sunbather who bestows trust in the rising tide, I was soaked with consequence. Once I had followed the tatty swindler into his rusting sedan, he slammed the doors shut and waving his dull pencil as a substitute to his switchblade, demanded his handsome payment upfront. At the mercy of a first-rate maniac, with his rage snowballing by the second, I stoically cooperated to his preposterous request.

And as life would have it, I spent my first morning locked inside the corroding backseat of an illegitimate taxi service, while the enchantment and fresh-air I was desperately holding on to, evaporated into the sweltering asphalt below.
(And respectively, this winter, when you’re planning your next snow-seeking vacation and you’re searching for a frost that kisses, not bites, I suggest you huff and puff through the nip and thin-air, to frolic as you wish, in the fairy-tale of Ladakh!)
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I must admit, I'm a bit behind but the next chronicle promises to be another gravity-defying plateful, where I'll be remembering an adventurous weekend rafting the rapids of the Ganges River, rapelling down cavernous slopes and ofcourse, my first ever bungee jump. If you're on facebook, try clicking on the link to catch a glimpse (you may want to fastforward to the end) http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=551650875135If Also, I continually post all my photos there. If you're are not on facebook, I've attached some photos to this email but I do seriously recommend you ditch the dinosaurs and consider joining the rest of us. Other than that, my marathon training is slow but certain, my hindi grows 2-3 words a day and my job-hunt has almost concluded in success but I will not disclose until everything is final. Again, feel free to bury me with the latest news and gossip. I'm obviously dying to know how the failing economy has affected you.. in particular! But I will understand if you're too sullen to reply--for it must be paralyzant agony to realize that the great George Bush is near finish

The Indian Chronicles I


Greetings readers,
In what may have been a long two years of fruitless junk and just downright drab in your inbox, you'd be glad to know another new suit case has been opened and a series of Chronicles awaits to be unpacked in that rotting inbox of yours. For those who did not receive the Paris Chronicles, let me speedily update you. In my semester abroad, my real true travel experience up until now, I garnered a few impressions, observations and incidents and tried to construct a travel log worthy of reading and less worthy of southern scrolling. I documented my stay in Paris, my wanderings around France and my run-ins with other European countries and cultures. As clash-prone the French and Americans are , I urged my chronicles to map out an accurate cross-cultural crash course—but in such effort, I crossed over to a literary terrain well explored by Americans alike. Tonight, I can honestly say, the second volume of my chronicles introduces an area of the world less traveled by the average American, let alone, the average individual. A place-- I am just as rapidly beginning to believe the praise as I am the criticism. So early into my understanding of this foreign land, these people, and their way of life, I impart only nascent impression in this email. My time here remains undetermined but most of all, uninhibited. I hope to seek occupation and I hope to cover cosmic ground—and in the process, keep all of you suffocating in suspense. So without a moment of further delay, I want to welcome the old, the new, the interested and the not-so-interested to the India Chronicles 2008…
Dorothy: [has just arrived in Oz, looking around and awed at the beauty and splendor] Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas any more. Dorothy: [after a pause] We must be over the rainbow! [a bubble appears in the sky and gets closer and closer. It finally lands, then turns into Glinda the Good Witch wearing a spectacular white dress and crown, holding a wand] Dorothy: [to Toto] Now I... I know we're not in Kansas!
My toto is named Jean Claude and he is a Bichon Frise. He is one of my three roommates and he has been with me since I first arrived. He, who has followed my sister from Geneva to Delhi has made the Euro-Indo transition seemingly smoothly, but he certainly takes time to show a little empathy for a lost American like myself. His patience, loyalty and soft fur has provided me the reassuring comfort that Toto once provided Dorothy when she realized she had landed in a different world.
Indeed, I had arrived into this new world with a thundering bang—5 bangs to be exact. In my first hour in Delhi, news struck that a series of five bombs had rattled the busy marketplaces—killing 30 and injuring 100 plus. Voyaging to a new land, like India, where culture-shock would paralyze the spine of a Chameleon, the imposing threat of terrorism, I suppose, is an added bonus. We've been heavily advised to avoid the crowded areas until after the festival season—ending towards late October but I, and the other 14 million don't so such a good job of that.
As the second most populated city in India, New Delhi appears to be the marvelous bedlam I had imagined. From the moment we pulled out of the airport parking lot, our driver fused into the whizzing traffic without fret. I was in disbelief and I still am with the approach to driving. Rickshaws, cars, SUV's, motorcycles, motor scooters, bicycles, pedestrians and cows all share the same road—moving forward like schools of salmon upstream. The sound of the horn is one flowing sound that echoes across the city—as honking one's horn is much more thoughtful and a compulsory gesture than any groan of frustration. In America, where beeeeeep is so often complimented with a middle finger, you'd be amazed to see such static facial expressions while an Indian man squashes down his horn. I've seen families of 4 squeeze together on small, rusting motor-scooters, I've seen little boys petal bicycles bursting in the back with concrete bricks but most extraordinarily, I see 5,000 recipes for disaster a day, but not one accident. The point of contact between two cars is so close, yet somehow, so far.
I am also fascinated how the more reckless and dangerous the driving is here, the less concern there is for safety belts or helmets. Just as the hotter the climate is, the more Indians see reason to wear as much clothing as possible. (As soon as my sister saw my suitcase piled high with shorts, she alerted me that men do not wear shorts in India. I have respected the custom so far, but I've seen a half dozen Indians in the last few days who too, are trying to show off some more leg that I may soon join them).
Many of the poor beggars engage in a practice of roadside vending. When you break at a stop light, malnourished, dirt-covered children approach your window either selling knotted balloons, oversized cowboy hats, or an issue of Maxim magazine. However, a few days back, a little bare-foot boy knocked on the backdoor window holding a brand new ball-point pen. Gee, I wondered. Here is a young fellow who has the idea of what the average consumer might want. Rolling down my window, I handed him ten rupees and he handed me the pen. I still use the pen and with it, I've brainstormed a list of more useful items a hungry child could display while he asks for money. In fact, I've recently purchased a few packages of Pens and sterile wipes to distribute to the panhandlers. Begging is not going away anytime soon, so why not empower the desperate with items that hold a bit more utility and practicality. I'll be sure to keep all of you updated on how my first social entrepreneurial project pans out—especially Dr. Levinson.
While we're on the topic of the lower class, I want to cite a passage in the India Times the morning after the terrorist attacks that struck me with unfamiliar bluntness. As you will see, these same children that I discuss above as impoverished and misguided receive what I consider to be brutal treatment in the Indian media.
"Located at the bottom of the urban social pyramid, rag pickers are the smelly boys in tattered clothes whom everyone quickly passes by. Even street dogs, sub-consciously aware of their lowly status and often confusing them for thieves, chase them in shabby bylanes."
This article goes on to say how one of these "rag-pickers" notified the police about the location of a bomb and emerged as a hero, but can you imagine the New York Times describing one of America's unprivileged as so depraved, he or she would be subject to the discrimination of a stray dog. Eeeks.
Where disparity, malnourishment and overpopulation throttles a roaring engine—Delhites tender strong convictions to modernize (At least as what the Western standard considers to be modernized). The citizens incorporate a wide range of Westernized products, pastimes, and procedures into their daily life. The gimmies like McDonalds, Subway, Western Union, but I've seen baseball games (not cricket, I am sure!) multicolored I-pods, fitness centers (I belong to one), night clubs, lustrous lingerie boutiques, wireless internet cafes and advertisements of half naked Indian women. Those that frequent the main marketplaces represent every walk of life in Indian society. The wealthy walk side by side the famished while the ever-growing middle class fills everywhere in between. Whereas in America and in Europe, defacto segregation plays a major role where one goes to shop, dine or just relax, New Delhi stands out as the greatest convergence of social class I have ever seen.
The landscape of the new city appears flat, green, methodical and manicured. When you emerge out of the commercial and populated areas, you're refreshed by trees, shrubbery and long narrow columns of grass. If I were to explain the vegetation, a tropical rainforest has shmoozed with the backwoods of Vermont. In my first few days, the heat certainly bolstered India's scorching reputation but in the last week, it has cooled down somewhat comfortably. Spending a summer in DC prepares one suitably for the climate in Delhi. Furthermore, as the capital of India, New Delhi resembles the same manufactured layout as Washington and subsequently, Paris to some extent. In Delhi's case, the British aesthetically designed the federal buildings in one concentrated area— complimented by the same manmade ponds and grassy gardens one would see at the National Mall. Like Washington, all roads converge at twirling circles and if you're not careful, you're spat out going the opposite direction on a one way. The India Gate, a very visible landmark in the center of the city stands as tantamount and proud as the Arc-De Triumph with a broad avenue running beneath it, seamless in its similarity to the L'avenue de Champs- Elysee in Paris.
The only thing developing in India that I notice on a daily basis is my laziness. We're not short of help in this house. Let's just say when you have two guards, a driver, a full time maid and a chef, one's attempt at earning keep is often thwarted by the duty of others. If I were to clean a dish, let alone bring a dirty dish into the kitchen, I am immediately reprimanded by our most soft-hearted chef, Teresa. If I tiptoe outside my bedroom and glance back, happy-go-lucky Lela is making my bed. To a restaurant, how about a day outing to a market or a party in the evening, my driver Vipan awaits still. With all the luxuries, my sister Gabrielle is a new-age ascetic—who acutely monitors electricity, cheese and alcohol. My Niece Sachi, 9, is a Canadian-Japanese- American who has lived everywhere but. Delhi, Geneva and back, she salutes an erasable flag. My sister's husband, born and raised in Canada, has called South-East Asia home for the last 14 years. His post at the World Bank has him orbiting around a half-dozen nations—some of these countries are honorees of Washington's "axis-of evil," others are only sketches on a map.
One of the most reoccuring attitudes in India from Indians and foreigns alike is that absolutely anything can happen here. Where cows unconditionally have the right of way and buses hold three times their compacity, a new day is a new way for the Indian people. Let me offer a small taste of what I like to refer to as the Indian debacle du jour...
The other night, my sister and I had to rescue our security guard, Ravi Ji, from a series of allegations held by a neighboring couple. That morning, Ravi Ji asked the man to remove his bike from our parking space. The man jeered at Ravi's request, and when Ravi repeated, the man impulsively struck a right fist into Ravi's cheek. Next thing led to another, and there were a dozen policemen and bystanders processing the sudden eruption of violence. In muddled up English and Hindi, we were told Ravi was headed to the hospital for treatment. Our condolences were only with Ravi's face until we received a call at dinner— Ravi ofcourse—in jail. The man who swung the punch and his wife had accused Ravi of a long history of offensive slurs. I accompanied an enraged Gabrielle and the guard on duty to the police station. Having not the foggiest clue what I got myself into going to an Indian jail, I sat in the backseat, thoroughly impressed with my sister's know-how and courage to zip along in Delhi traffic with a right sided steering wheel. We arrived at the station and Hindi emerged as the chosen language—I again, sat silently and obliviously. I sat because the most gracious Indian police officer invested more concern that I sit than he did arbitrating the dispute at hand. As the two sides pleaded their case—Gabrielle representing Ravi Ji (In Hindi, b.t.w., she speaks crystal clear Hindi—as I am told) I would stand--out of consideration to those that were standing. But again, the same police officer halted the deliberation and signaled that I sit back down—waving his hands back and forth below his waist. I sat and the Indian judicial process resumed. Once the parties quieted, the kindhearted policeman who made certain I was still comfortable, declared that in India, the two men must formally apologize to one another, followed by a handshake. This did not come easy, but in time, the two men suppressed their animosities and shook hands. The handshake concluded that Ravi Ji indeed may have said rude remarks to the couple, but there had not been any other testimonies to substantiate such a claim. Ravi Ji and the other man swapped positions--Ravi was set free, while the culprit spent his night in jail.
On the other hand, many Indians stay rather clear of the city's hussle and bussle. If truth be told, I've never seen so many humans just sitting, and not just sitting, but sitting so low, their legs seem to be missing. Sitting on the ground, sitting on walls, on bicycles or sitting beside dogs who sit for hours—primarily due to the fact they're unconscious. It seems for a lot of Indians as well, if they sit too long, they begin to fall asleep. 12pm or 12am, the sidewalks prove to be a terrific spectrum of snoozing, sprawling men.
Indians do much more than seek room and board on the sidewalks. They also come together and create small little economies that serve the needs of everyone on that block. Little external kitchens that grill, young girls and their mother's husk corn while others knit. But the most venerated professional on the block seems to be the barber—who spends his day shaving the wooly faces of his neighbors. Observing the popularity among the local folk time after time, I needed to discover what all this hype was about! So when I decided I needed a haircut, my sister and I approached the crowded dwelling where the barber sets up shop and requested a beginner's trial. Undoubtedly, I was his first westerner of the morning and very well likely, his career. As he began to cut, an audience of 20 to 25 puzzled Indians observed, as if a friendly octopus had just sat down for a quick trim. After delivering a picture-perfect haircut, he ended with a complete head message—all for one great price! 1 US dollar! As long as he still practices, I will forever roam the Subcontinent with a fresh dew!
Under the guise of my sister's son, I was able to join the family membership at the health center. I spend most mornings recovering the mental and physical health that once propelled me to run marathons. I am starting back slow but I have signed up for the New Delhi ½ marathon in early November. It is to be one of the world's premier half marathon events, attracting runners from all over.
We're busily brainstorming ideas for Christmas, but I have firm aspirations for my forthcoming travels. Starting tomorrow morning, where I will join a few other Americans to a land I know very little of except that its beauty is as breathtaking and its enchantment is without equal. Known as the Ladakh region of Kashmir, we will fly to Lak, a quaint Buddhist town tucked high in the skyscraping Himalayas. The plan is to spend three days acclimatizing and three days hiking higher into the mountains. You can be sure the next installment will be stuffed with my experiences there. Down the road, I plan to take a few weeks to see more of Southern India, including Bombay and the Goa region but at the fore is my adventure to sashay the shores of South East Asia. Beginning in Bangkok, I will rove south to see for myself where the bluest water truthfully meets the whitest sand—Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore or Indonesia? I am subburn just thinking about it!
There is so much more to tell but I need to break everyone in before I totally fill the page!
I want to thank everyone who attended my send off party in Gloucester and I kid you not, if you thought it had covered some reasonable ground, the teenage pregnancy scandal at GHS made headlines in the Delhi newspapers.
Please feel free to forward these emails to anyone who I may have left out or someone you know that may be interested in this part of the world. Please respond with questions, gossip and travel advice! I've even discovered that earth-shrinking gizmo called Skype (Richard Alec: India directory). I would love to hear from everybody! Without any hockey moms over here, it can get a little lonely.
So long for now,
Richard